This is key. Cacao fermentation is an essential step in the processing of cocoa beans to transform them into the flavorful ingredient we know and love. The other most important part is roasting. Of course you only get roast-able beans with great terroir, strains and fermentation techniques. This a 2-step ferementation that is considered the most difficult food fermentation in the world. The two distinct stages: stage-1 anaerobic fermentation and stage-2 aerobic fermentation have many chances to fail. Additionally, drying the cacao beans (too fast or too slow) plays a crucial role in the overall quality of the final product. In this article, we will delve into the science behind these stages of fermentation, explore the unique characteristics of cacao fermentation, and discuss the possible problems that may arise in Hawaii, along with effective solutions for each. Everything you do to the beans effect the flavors and what we taste in non-roasted cocoa beans, called flavor precursors.

Understanding Stage-1 Anaerobic Cacao Fermentation

So how to ferment cacao? The first stage of cacao fermentation, known as anaerobic fermentation, is a crucial step in the development of cacao beans' flavor profiles. This intricate process takes place within the cacao pulp that encases the beans, creating a microcosm of biochemical reactions that are essential for the beans' transformation. As the pulp breaks down, it releases sugars that serve as a source of energy for various microorganisms, kickstarting the fermentation process. Just start with as much cacao as possible. If not, you almost need an entire second article for small-batch fermentation. What makes it feasible is the size or weight of the fermenting mass of cacao beans.

Aside from temperature, pH levels, and microbial activity, another significant factor in stage-1 fermentation is the duration of the process. The length of time the beans spend in the anaerobic environment directly impacts the final flavor profile of the cacao. Less fermentation times can lead to more acidic and meaty flavors, as the microbial activity has no time to interact with the sugars and other compounds present in the pulp. It can take 48 full hours. Even if you are fementing just 1 pound.
Furthermore, the anaerobic fermentation process is not only about flavor development but also about the physical changes that occur within the beans. The breakdown of sugars and proteins during fermentation softens the beans and prepares them for the subsequent stages of processing. This transformation is crucial for the beans to develop the desired aroma and taste characteristics that are highly sought after in quality cacao products. Heat is the other significant factor in both stages.
Delving into Aerobic Cacao Stage-2 Fermentation

Once stage-1 anaerobic fermentation is complete, the cacao beans transition to stage-2 fermentation, known as aerobic fermentation. In this stage, oxygen becomes essential for the continued transformation of flavors and the development of desirable aromas. The beans are spread out in the open, allowing oxygen to interact with the compounds produced during stage-1 fermentation. There will be a lot of undesirable aromas for another week or so.
Oxygen acts as a catalyst for the oxidative reactions that occur during stage-2 fermentation. This process results in the formation of volatile compounds, which contribute significantly to the aromatic profile of cacao. The role of oxygen in this stage cannot be understated, as it facilitates the breakdown of complex compounds and the creation of new flavors. The oxygen takes it out of stage-1.
During aerobic fermentation, the temperature of the cacao beans is carefully monitored and controlled. The PH can be lowered by stirring often. But it cools them down. They need to heat to 117 degrees for 5 days in stage 2. The beans are frequently turned to ensure even exposure to oxygen and heat. This meticulous process helps in creating evenly fermented beans. Something can go wrong at like, every step. Can you master every step? I believe you can.

As the beans (really the pulp) undergo aerobic fermentation, microbial activity continues to play a crucial role in shaping the final flavor profile of the cacao (by causing internal chemcial reactions). Beneficial microbes present in the environment contribute to the breakdown of sugars and proteins, further enhancing the complexity of flavors in the beans. And there are many, many, many of them. If you have few beans, like a jar, follow the same instructions. You will simply have unique difficulties we will cover.
The Art of Drying Cacao

Following the fermentation process, drying cacao is crucial to prevent spoilage and ensure the preservation of the flavors developed during fermentation. Proper drying allows for the removal of excess moisture, reducing the risk of fungi growth and bacterial contamination. It also helps to stabilize the cacao beans, making them easier to store and transport. Without this, you will not be able to utilize the cacao husk as a tea-like product.
The importance of drying in cacao processing cannot be emphasized enough. Drying the beans slowly and evenly is key to achieving a high-quality product. They need to be stirred and turned. Rapid drying can lead to the formation of off-flavors and undesirable, sweaty and hammy aromas, compromising the overall taste of the finished chocolate. Additionally, drying cacao in a dehydrator for example could affect the quality of the beans because they dry to fast for the internal chemical reactions to complete.
One traditional method of drying cacao beans is sun drying, where the beans are spread out in a single layer on trays or mats under the sun. This process can take several days and requires regular turning of the beans to ensure uniform drying. Sun drying is favored by some producers for its simplicity and cost-effectiveness, as it utilizes natural resources and does not require additional energy inputs. In Hawai'i, its rainy (and sunny). The rain can ruin your drying and therefore all your hardwork harvesting and carefully fermenting. Humidity isn't really a problem so drying in green houses is super common. In your own kitchen? Avoid the dehydrator. Try and ironing board in the sun with an over sheet pan on it. It can take 2 to 4 weeks depending on the ambient moisture. During less rainy seasons, its so much easier.
Typically the beans have to rest for 2 months after fermentation for the smells that leave at room temperature can all completely vacate through volatility. Chocolate isn't made from unrested cacao beans...It tastes so different and bad, its not a thing.
Unraveling the Science of Typical Fermentation
During fermentation, various biochemical reactions occur, influenced by the complex microbial community present in the cacao pulp. It does not happen in the bean. The beans get cured in the process of the pulp fermenting. The beans aren't fermented, they just get soaked in the fluids and microbes of pulp fermentation. It kills the seedling and cures the seed so it will never grow, oxidize and make mellow chocolate.
Unlike other food processing techniques, cacao fermentation relies on a carefully cultivated microbial ecosystem. Even in tiny batches. The specific combination of bacteria and yeast strains that develop during fermentation helps to unlock the hidden flavors within cacao beans. This cannot happen from heat. The heat won't be generated from small quantities of beans. Artificial heat is required. Heat lamps, hot water bottles and even electric blankets can be used to generate the heat in small-batches that don't have a large enough quantity to have it happen organically. This is why its easier in larger harvests. Fermenting single pounds at a time yields only a tiny amount of chocolate and its months of work still. It takes just as long no matter how many pounds you are fermenting.
The microbial community involved in cacao fermentation is a diverse and dynamic one. As the fermentation progresses, different species of bacteria and yeast dominate at different stages, contributing to the development of complex flavors in the cacao beans. This intricate dance of microorganisms is crucial in determining the final taste profile of the chocolate derived from these fermented beans.
Saccharomyces cerevisiae is the most beneficial yeast to inoculate your beans with. I highly recommend using additional local and wild yeasts from banana leaves and pineapple skins. Soursop and starfruit have even been used in addition to cacao pulp in fermentation to help the sugar levels and PH levels. Patenting our unique fermentation technique is a great idea but we are happy to share exactly how we do it. Sometimes we even import wild cacao yeasts from award-winning origins like Marañon Canyon to help increase temp and microbial action.
Moreover, cacao fermentation is not just about flavor precursor development; it also plays a vital role in reducing the bitterness of the beans. The fermentation process helps break down compounds responsible for a natural nasty astringent taste, making the chocolate derived from these fermented beans are more palatable and enjoyable to consumers. This natural transformation through fermentation showcases the harmonious relationship between science and nature in the world of chocolate production. You can get washed beans made into chocolate from some places. Its known as "lavado" and does not have chocolate flavor.
What Sets Cacao Fermentation Apart?

While the science behind cacao fermentation may seem similar to other fermentation processes, there are some distinct characteristics that make cacao fermentation truly unique. The intricate balance of microbial activity and the 2-stages, coupled with the conversion of complex sugars, contributes to the development of extraordinary flavor profiles. Its really only comprehensible by doing over and over and failing a bunch. Let's try and prevent that.
Low quality cacao, really only is 70% fermented. Thats 1 reason commodity cacao by "Big Chocolate" Companies is considered inferior. No fermentation or heap fermentation (1-stage) is used in commodity chocolate.
Appreciate the crucial role of timing in the process. That and heat are your only tools. The duration of fermentation plays a pivotal role in curing the bean with alcohol and with acetobacter bacteria to make cacao pulp vinegar in the process. Chocolate is an amazing final product with hints of nuttiness, and fruityness with precise timing and temp of fermentation. Don't over look your tools.
Moreover, stirring multiple times or not, lead to multiple different flavor profiles. Some folks do not stir at all during stage - 1. Some do and don't stir everyday in stage - 2. They may not need to if they don't have acidic beans. But, if you do, stirring everyday is necessary. You will have to get to know your beans, know your origins and this is only possible if you live in a cacao farming/producing country. If you don't live in a cacao producing country (including USA), then you cant control any aspects of cacao fermentation. You can only acquire beans that have already been fermented and dried. Thats most countries in the world. So if you have the chance to ferment cacao, read this article and do it right! If you want to learn more you can always take our super fun and informative courses on chocolate-tasting and cacao bean analysis and sourcing.
Possible Problems in Hawaii

Cacao cultivation in Hawaii faces its own set of challenges due to its unique climate and ecosystem. One potential problem that arises in Hawaii is the risk of mold development during fermentation due to high humidity levels. Another challenge is rose beetle. It eats baby cacao leaves until they die. The leaves get laced. Farming in Hawaii is pest management. So, taking care of the Queensland Beetle before it becomes a devastating cacao pest in Hawaii is crucial. It could crush the industry. There is also phytophthera or black pod rod and we have managed to avoid true eco-terror like Witches Broom that devasted the Brazillian Cacao Industry deliberately.
Problem: Mold Development
Its actually okay. The mold on dried cacao beans get roasted off.
Furthermore, it is important to note that the selection of appropriate cacao varieties can also play a significant role in preventing mold development. Certain cacao varieties have been found to be more resistant to mold, making them ideal for cultivation in Hawaii's unique climate.

Problem: Temperature Fluctuations
Temperature fluctuations can pose a challenge to cacao cultivation in Hawaii, but there are strategies that can be employed to address this issue. One effective solution is the implementation of shade structures in the fermentation area. These structures help shield the cacao beans from direct sunlight, reducing the effects of temperature spikes (sunburns) and creating a more stable environment for fermentation. This is what the professionals do. It reduces mold too.
Additionally, the use of wood containers during fermentation can provide further temperature regulation. These containers act as a barrier, preventing rapid temperature changes and ensuring that the cacao beans undergo the fermentation process without disruption. The wood allows fluids to leak out through pours. They can otherwise pool and cool down the fermentation bringing it to a near stop.

By implementing these solutions, cacao farmers in Hawaii can overcome the challenges posed by small-batches, mold development and temperature fluctuations, ultimately have a successful time producing high-quality cacao beans.
It is worth noting that the success of cacao cultivation in Hawaii not only contributes to the local economy but also adds to the diversity of the global cacao industry. The unique climate and ecosystem of Hawaii offer a distinct flavor profile to the cacao beans, making them highly sought after by chocolate enthusiasts worldwide. Very few farmers ship out of the state unfortunately. We only sell our Certified Slave-free Hawaii craft chocolate here. At Island Sharks on Hawaii's Big Island.
As we explore the complexities and solutions of cacao fermentation, let's not forget the human element behind every mistake. Communication. So we built the Craft Chocolate AI GPT. Its on our homepage! Ask it anything! Or, please get in touch and stay in touch and let us help you with your drying rack lining, or the nuances of pruning the trees or even making fine, satisfying Hawaii craft chocolate! Let me know your questions whatever country your are in. I am happy to help. Thanks for reading and I hope this helps you have successful fermentations always. Let me know! - Cocoa Coach, Ethan
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